Front brakeline "T"	Brake line proportioning valve	DC converter	Accelerator pedal assembly	Controller mounting board
Edge view, control board	Windshield blower mounting	Dashboard top

Brakes completed: I have brake line pressure! The brakes are operating! It has been a long, long road to this day. I have installed, torn out and replaced the brake line and connections twice. Lessons learned: (1) Convert everything metric with adapters to standard American "inverted flare" tubing, the parts are much easier to obtain. Bubble-flare line looks like it will connect directly into control valves, but it will leak, and a pipe-thread adapter is needed. (2) If you need to cut tubing to the right length, buy a quality flaring tool for $50 or else cut the line in the middle and use compression fittings. Compression fittings are not acceptable on stock automobiles, but on a one-off home-built vehicle, it they don't leak, they're good. (3) Attach the line to the frame with rubber-lined wiring harness clamps and self-drilling hex-head screws. Drill a pilot hole anyway, and drive the screws in with a variable-speed electric drill and a hex-head driver bit. Putting phillips-head sheet metal or self-tapping screws into the steel frame by hand, even with the correct hole-size, is extremely difficult. (4) Buy some expensive, titanium or oxide-coated drill bits specially designed for drilling steel. Regular steel bits will dull in less than a minute.

3-wheel Electric Vehicle Pages
	Journal of humm-E Why electric? Design Decisions Frame Fabrication Frame Complete Aug. 18, 2005 Progress Slide Show Nov. 1, 2005 Progress Slide Show April 2006 Progress Slide Show April 2007 May, 2007 First Test Run Designing the Body		Debts of Gratitude Propulsion System Specifications Expenses Log

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